If your old jeep tub has the usual amount of holes that need to be welded up. A nifty copper backing spoon can be fashioned out copper pipe. Cut a piece long enough to leave a handle with a couple of inches left over to form the spoon. Flatten the extra portion with a vise or hammer and bend to suit the application, the handle will usually stay cool enough to hold on to while you hold the spoon to back up the holes that you are welding.

Get rid of that Bondo the Easy way

What you need is an ordinary propane torch with one of those “fan” attachments on the nozzle. If you do not have a propane torch an electric heat gun will work as well, just not as fast. Turn the flame up and hold it against the painted/filled surface. Within seconds the paint and filler will bubble and burn. As soon as it does you can scrape it away with moderate pressure on the blade. As the blade gets hotter it will sink into the surface and help remove material. Flaming paint/filler will fall to the floor. Removing filler up to 3/8 inch thick might take a of couple passes, but an area of roughly two square feet can be removed to the metal in around 10 minutes. Do it outdoors if you can, or have an exhaust fan running.

What gauge steel is used in the construction of your Jeep® body tubs

Two gauges of steel are used in the construction of the reproduction body tubs. (18) Gauge steel is used in the front and rear flooring, all mounting brackets, top cowl assemble, and wheel housings. (16) Gauge steel is used for all side body panels and rear tail panels


When restoring your vintage jeep it is a good idea to replace the entire brake system with new components. Get the job done right the first time instead of piecing it together and constantly working on your brakes. The old saying certainly applies here “Do it right and do it once”


Remember when replacing those worn out U-joints to line up the zerks so that they are on the same side front and back. Makes the lube job a little easier. Don’t forget to keep the yokes on the same plane as well, helps to keep the drive line balanced.

What rear axle assembly do I have in my Jeep?

Due to the length of production of the Jeep, and the number of modifications that might have been made to any Jeep over the years this question is a little harder to answer than most. The Dana-27 axle was used from 1941-1947 MB’s and early CJ-2A’s. The Dana-44 (tapered axle) was used from 1948-1969 CJ’s. The Dana-44 (flanged axle) was used from 1970-1975 in CJ-5’s, some 1986 CJ-7’s, and recently in some 1997-present TJ Wranglers. The AMC-20 (tapered axle) was used from 1976-1986 in CJ-5’s, and CJ-7’s. The Dana-35 (flanged axle) was used from 1987 to present in both Jeep Wrangler models.


One of the most commonly asked questions we get asked is: How do I polarize my new regulator?

To properly polarize a new or replacement regulator momentarily place an 8″ 16 ga. or larger wire across the Battery terminal and the Armature terminal for no longer than 2 seconds.

Having problems with corrosion in electrical sockets, plugs and terminal connections?

Try using some dielectric grease on the contact surfaces first. This grease will help repel moisture and maintain conductivity, which means less headaches for you!

Settings for AUTO-LITE VRY-4203 A,B,E or G Regulators

Cutout relay: Cuts in 6.5 to 7.0 volts / Cuts out at .5 to 6.0 amphere discharge current / Contact gap .025″ minimum Air gap .0595 – .0025 with contacts open

Voltage regulator: Setting 7.35 volts at 70 deg. F / Contact gap .010 – .012 spring tension 7 – 8 ozs. / Air gap .040 – .042 with the contacts just opening .010 – .016 between contact spring and armature stop.

Current regulator: Setting 40 – 42 ampheres/ Contact gap .030 – .033 spring tension 7 – 8 ozs. / Air gap .047 – .049 with the contacts just opening .010 – .016 between contact spring and armature stop.

Want to brighten up your dash lamps? Try this nifty idea!

To make your panel light brighter, you don’t need to open the slot in the covers more. Just paint the inside of the light covers gloss white. Also works for the blackout drive lamp if you paint the underside of the lamp shape.

This Techtip was submitted by Mike D.


GPW blocks are ” New Ford Gray” and can be purchased here. MB blocks are OD #34087 same color you will paint the body with. Air filter, oil filter, fan blade and horn are a semi flat black which can also be purchased here. Voltage regulator is finished in black wrinkle paint also found here. Early crossover tubes were also semi flat black later were OD.

MB/GPW Head Bolt Torque Sequence

Stud sizes:
7/16 x 3 7/16 unplated in holes
5, 7, 9, 15
and 7/16 x 3 7/16 plated in hole 10 and
7/16 x 3 7/8 plated in hole 12.
7/16 x 2 3/4 bolts in all remaining holes

Here’s a timing tip submitted by an ol’timer (no pun intended)

Lining up the keyway on the crankshaft to 3:00 will place the #1 and #4 cylinders at TDC just be sure check that you are not 180 degs. off.

When reassembling an engine make sure you cover the connecting rods studs with either a sparkplug boot or an appropriate length of rubber hose to prevent scratching the the rod journals of the crankshaft.

When rebuilding your old flathead four it is a good idea to install hardened exhaust valve seats for todays modern no-lead fuel.

What is the proper thermostat for my L134/F134 engine?

The 180 stat will help to keep your engine cleaner and you will get better gas mileage. A 180 degree thermostat will allow the water in your oil to boil out, keeping your engine internals rust free. With anti freeze and a 4 lb. cap the boiling point is 240 degrees.

A tip given to me by a long time CJ2A mechanic for adjusting the valve clearance on L4-134’s.

Valves 4 and 7 open, adjust valves 2 and 5
Valves 1 and 3 open, adjust valves 6 and 8
Valves 2 and 5 open, adjust valves 4 and 7
Valves 6 and 8 open, adjust valves 1 and 3

Sent in by Mark P. Roseville, CA.

How do I know if I have an “L” flat head engine 4cly or the later “F” head over head valve 4cly engine in my vintage jeep?

The quickest way to determine what engine you have will be to look at the following items. “L” flat head engine will have the plugs and plug wires pointing straight up on top of the head. “F” head over head valve engine will have a metal valve cover and the plugs and wires will be pointing out at an angle on the driver’s side of the head. It is very important to know what engine you have before placing an order for parts. Your jeep might have had an engine replaced over the years that might not match your year’s specifications.

No Start Condition

  • No fuel in carb–suspect fuel pump so clean filter in bowl. All OK.
  • R&R pump (no fun)–seems OK.
  • Still no go–blow out fuel lines–all clear.
  • Still no go–Remove pump again–try sucking fuel from bucket by manually working pump lever — fuel shoots six feet — pump OK.
  • Last resort–check rubber flex fuel line between disc fuel filter on pass side dash and steel line to engine (pass side)–no sign of fuel leaks–submerge rubber line in bucket of water and blow while blocking outlet end–lotza bubbles. Eureka! Line leaks but no evidence because line always under vacuum from pump. Pump sucking AIR vs FUEL. Replace line with aftermkt. in line filter which includes rubber hoses and clamps–cheap. Problem solved.

This Techtip was submitted by rikrin


Here’s a handy tip when repairing your jeeps frame. You can simulate rivits by using button head socket bolts and mig welding the allen head hole shut. Don’t forget to weld the nut to the underside as well. Great for replacing the always damaged bumper gussets!


Carb Problem: Excessive Fuel Consumption
Float level is too high or float is leaking internally
Float valve is worn or dirty and won’t seat properly
Metering rods worn or jet openings worn
Power jet not shutting off
Idle mixture adjustments too rich
Throttle shaft worn and leaking vacuum
Accelerator pump stroke too long
Choke stuck partially closed
Fuel pump pressure too high
Air cleaner dirty and clogged

Carb Problem: Surging (Lean Mixture)
Air leak in manifold or under carburetor
Float bowl atmospheric vent clogged
Float level too low
Air bleeds clogged
Incorrect main jet or metering rod
Clogged jets
Throttle shaft worn
Fuel pump pressure too low
Heat riser manifold leaking
Vacuum leak

Carb Problem: Poor Acceleration
Accelerator pump faulty or linkage settings wrong
Leaking check valve in pump circuit
Float level too low
Jets running too lean
Vacuum leaks
Throttle not opening fully (linkage)
Choke valve stuck partially closed

Carb Problem: Poor Idle
Air leaking into manifold
Mixture screws incorrectly adjusted or malformed at tips
Float level too high
Throttle shaft worn
Dirty internal carburetor components
Choke fast-idle linkage incorrectly adjusted

Carb Problem: Stalling
Dashpot improperly adjusted
Air bleeds clogged
Idle passages clogged (if screws will not correct, passages are clogged)
Vacuum leak
Idle speed too low

I’m having trouble getting my Solex downdraught carburetor for my vintage 134 4cly engine to run correctly. What adjustments should I make?

The Type M.32 PBIC carburetor is a bolt on replacement for the original Carter Carburetor and has some differences. It is very important to note that the Solex M.32 will need only 1-1/3 to 2 pounds of fuel pressure at the inlet fuel line. Any thing higher will cause the carburetor to run very rich and produce drivability problems especially in high altitude regions. If the fuel pressure is found to be to high an inline regulator will be needed. Another area to pay special attention to when installing the new carburetor is to the rubber fuel lines. If possible these lines leading to the carburetor should be replaced with new lines and installed very carefully to avoid producing debris or small rubber shavings after the fuel filter. If a small particle makes its way into the carburetor it is possible for it to clog the needle valve and cause a run rich condition.


When replacing the bushings in your steering box remember to ream them to size of the sector shaft. If you do not have an adjustable reamer you can use a small wheel cylinder hone to do the job!

submitted by Dave A. Spokane, Wa.

Transmission/Transfer Case

One of the quirks of the T84/Dana 18 setup is the problem of oil migration and subsequent leaking from the bell housing of oil. This can be remedied by replacing the bearings with the sealed versions

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